The New Yorker has a terrific profile of chef Dan Giusti, who went from being the head chef at Noma in Copenhagen, often called the best restaurant in the world, to a job less exalted but possibly far more influential.

The story says that when Giusti left Noma, he “thought about opening a counter-service chain—another Sweetgreen or Shake Shack—but felt that the choices were already too abundant. What was the point? So his mind went to institutions—schools, in particular—where, despite a larger cultural shift away from industrial foods, there had been little innovation or improvement in decades. He saw both a moral purpose and a business opportunity.

“Giusti is not the first fine-dining chef to show an interest in school-food reform; Jamie Oliver, Bill Telepan, Alice Waters, Tom Colicchio, and others have volunteered their time to try to combat the prevalence of chicken patties and chocolate milk in American cafeterias. But he is among the first to take on the challenge not as an after-hours project but as a full-time professional calling.”

It is a fascinating story, and you can read it here.